Best Longboards for Beginners: What Actually Works (And What Doesn't)
A guide to picking your first longboard without wasting money on something you'll regret in two weeks.
Main Points
- Drop-through longboards are the best starting point for most beginners, full stop
- Aim for 36 to 42 inches in length depending on your height
- Wheels should be 65 to 75mm diameter, 78A to 83A durometer (soft = smoother ride)
- Budget $90 to $150 for a complete that'll actually last
- Brands like Landyachtz, Sector 9, Atom, and Yocaher are solid choices
- Safety gear is not optional, especially wrist guards
Table of Contents
- What Makes a Longboard Beginner-Friendly?
- Drop-Through vs Pintail vs Cruiser: Which Shape is Right for You?
- Best Beginner Longboards by Budget
- Components Explained: Trucks, Wheels, Bearings
- Sizing Guide: Matching the Board to Your Body
- Safety Gear You Actually Need
- Basic Techniques: Pushing, Turning, Stopping
- Maintenance Tips That'll Save You Money
- Conclusion
- FAQ
What Makes a Longboard Beginner-Friendly?
So what actually seperates a good beginner board from a bad one? It's not the graphics. It's not the brand name. It's the geometry.
The single most important thing is stability. A board that wobbles unpredictably at low speeds will wreck your confidence fast. I've seen people give up after one session because they bought a $40 board from a big box store that felt like riding a cafeteria tray. The wheels were hard, the trucks were too loose, and the whole thing just wanted to throw them off.
A proper beginner board does three things well:
- It sits low to the ground (reduces wobble, makes pushing easier)
- It has soft wheels that absorb road cracks and pebbles
- It's wide enough that your feet have somewhere to go
Wide decks, generally 9 inches or more, give you that confidence-building stability. Soft wheels in the 78A to 83A range smooth out rough pavement. And a drop-through or drop-down construction brings your center of gravity down, which makes a genuinely noticeable difference when you're first learning.
What should you avoid? Boards under $60 from generic retailers. The trucks on those things turn like they're filled with concrete, or they're so loose the board speed-wobbles at 5mph. Either way, you're not learning anything useful. You're just fighting bad equipment.
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Drop-Through vs Pintail vs Cruiser: Which Shape is Right for You?
\nPeople ask this constantly. What shape should I get? Here's the honest answer.
\nDrop-Through Longboards
\nThese are the gold standard for beginners. The trucks mount through the deck itself, which drops the platform closer to the ground. That lower center of gravity does two things: it makes the board more stable, and it makes pushing less tiring. Your foot doesn't have to drop as far to reach the ground.
\nDrop-through longboards are what I'd recommend to probably 80% of people just starting out. They forgive weight distribution mistakes. They're easier to foot-brake. And they feel planted in a way that builds real confidence.
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Pintail Longboards
Pintail longboards have that classic surf-inspired shape, wider in the nose and tapering toward the tail. They're top-mounted, so you sit a bit higher. That means slightly more lean to initiate turns, which some people love and others find nerve-wracking at first.
If you're drawn to carving and you want something that feels surfy and responsive, a pintail is a legitimate choice. Just know that the learning curve is a tiny bit steeper than drop-through.
Cruiser Longboards
\nShorter boards, typically 28 to 36 inches. Great for getting around campus or commuting short distances. More maneuverable, easier to carry. The tradeoff is less standing platform, which means less margin for error when you're still figuring out your balance.
\nCruising longboards make sense if portability is a priority and you're okay with a slightly more responsive (read: twitchy) ride.
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Best Beginner Longboards by Budget
\nHere's a practical breakdown. These are real boards that real beginners ride, not theoretical ideal setups.
\n| Budget | \nBoard | \nWhy It Works | \n
|---|---|---|
| Under $100 | \nRetrospec Zed 41" Drop-Through | Reliable components, decent trucks, good entry point |
| $100-$150 | Atom Drop Deck 39" | \n9.5" wide deck, 50-degree trucks, ABEC-9 bearings, genuinely impressive for the price |
| $100-$150 | Yocaher Drop-Down Complete | Solid maple construction, consistent quality, lots of graphics options |
| $150-$200 | Sector 9 Pintail or Drop-Through | Long-established brand, arrives perfectly tuned, quality throughout |
| $200+ | Landyachtz Drop Cat | Bear Grizzly trucks, Hawgs wheels, premium everything |
The Atom Longboards range is honestly one of the best kept secrets in the beginner market. People expect budget to mean bad. The Atom Drop Deck genuinely surprises people. The 50-degree reverse kingpin trucks turn smoothly without being twitchy, and the 70mm 78A wheels handle cracked sidewalks without throwing you off.
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Sector 9 Skateboards boards are worth the extra spend if you can swing it. They've been making longboards since the 80s and the muscle memory in their setups shows. Everything is dialed out of the box.
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For Yocaher Skateboards, the Earth Series and VW Beetle Series drop-downs are consistently well-reviewed. Good maple construction, responsive trucks, and they're widely available.
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Components Explained: Trucks, Wheels, Bearings
\nYou don't need to know everything about longboard components. But understanding the basics means you won't get fooled into buying something that rides terribly.
\nTrucks
\nLongboard trucks for beginners should be reverse kingpin style. These are designed specifically for longboarding, not street skating. They turn more naturally at lower speeds.
\nLook for trucks with a 44 to 50 degree baseplate angle. The 50-degree option is more responsive, which is actually better for beginners because small weight shifts produce visible turning. You don't have to commit your whole body to change direction.
\nWidth should match your deck. For a 9 to 10-inch deck, 180mm trucks are standard.
\nWheels
\nLongboard wheels are where a lot of cheap boards cut corners. Here's what matters:
\nDiameter: 65 to 75mm. Bigger wheels roll over cracks easier and maintain speed better. For most American sidewalks and roads, 70mm is a sweet spot.
\nDurometer: This is hardness. For beginners, 78A to 83A is ideal. Softer wheels grip better and smooth out rough surfaces. Hard wheels (95A+) are for skate parks and smooth concrete. They'll rattle your teeth on normal pavement.
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Bearings
Bearings for longboards control how freely your wheels spin. ABEC-7 is the minimum you want. ABEC-9 is better. Ceramic bearings are premium and worth it if you're planning to commute regularly, because they maintain speed longer and need less pushing effort.
Don't use WD-40 on bearings. Seriously. It strips the lubrication and attracts dirt. Use actual bearing lubricant.
Sizing Guide: Matching the Board to Your Body
Does board size actually matter? Yes, more than most people think. A board that's too short for a tall rider, or too wide for someone with small feet, just doesn't feel right and slows down learning.
Length guidelines: - Under 5'6": 32 to 38 inches\n- 5'6" to 5'10": 38 to 42 inches\n- Over 5'10": 40 to 46 inches
When in doubt, go longer. More deck means more foot placement options and more forgiveness.
Width by shoe size: - Shoe size 5 to 6.5: Under 8.5 inches wide - Shoe size 7 to 8.5: 8.5 to 9 inches - Shoe size 9+: 9 inches or wider
Wheelbase (distance between trucks) affects turning. Longer wheelbase = more stable, less turny. For cruising and learning basics, 20 to 26 inches is ideal.
The height of the board off the ground matters too. Drop-through and drop-down longboards typically put you 4 to 6 inches up. That range is ideal for beginners. Low enough to push comfortably, high enough to turn without bottoming out.
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Safety Gear You Actually Need
\nI'm not gonna sugarcoat this. You will fall. Everyone does. The question is whether you fall and get back up, or fall and hurt your wrist badly enough that you don't ride again for six weeks.
\nHelmet: Non-negotiable. Get a skate-specific helmet, not a bike helmet. They're designed for different impact angles. It should sit level on your head and the buckle should be snug. If it wobbles around, it's too big.
\nWrist guards: These are actually more important than most people realise. Your instinct when falling is to catch yourself with your hands. Wrist guards prevent that from snapping something. I've seen people skip these and regret it badly.
\nKnee and elbow pads: Less critical than wrists, but they save you from the kind of road rash that makes you not want to practice for a week. Confidence matters a lot when you're learning. Pads give you that.
\nCheck out protective gear for longboards to see what's available.
\nFootwear: Shoes with flat, grippy soles. Vans, Converse, skate shoes. Not flip flops. Not dress shoes. Definitely not sandals.
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Basic Techniques: Pushing, Turning, Stopping
\nWhat foot goes in front? This is called your stance. Regular means left foot forward. Goofy means right foot forward. The easiest way to figure it out is to notice which foot you naturally lead with when you run or kick a ball. That's usually your front foot.
\nPushing
\nStand on the board with your front foot perpendicular to the board, positioned over the front trucks. Keep your back foot on the ground. Push gently backward against the pavement, then bring your back foot up onto the board.
\nThe key word there is gently. Multiple smooth pushes beat one aggressive shove every time. Aggressive pushes create instability. Smooth pushes build momentum.
\nPracticing this on grass first sounds silly but genuinely helps. The resistance slows you down so you can focus entirely on the footwork.
\nTurning
\nLean toward the direction you want to turn. Toe pressure turns you toward your toes. Heel pressure turns you the other way. The board responds to weight shifts, not dramatic body movements.
\nStart with wide, gentle arcs. Get the feel for how much lean produces how much turn. Then gradually tighten your carves as confidence builds.
\nStopping
\nFoot braking is the first stopping method to learn. Get into pushing stance, balance on your front foot, and let your back foot drag lightly against the ground. Gradually increase pressure to slow down.
\nThe most common mistake is braking too suddenly. That pitches you forward. Apply pressure gradually. Practice on flat ground at low speed until it feels natural before trying it on any kind of slope.
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Maintenance Tips That'll Save You Money
\nA well-maintained board rides better and lasts years longer. None of this is complicated.
\nStorage: Keep the board indoors. Garages and basements have temperature and humidity swings that warp decks over time. Don't lean it against a wall on the nose or tail for extended periods. Lay it flat or store it on its edge.
\nBearings: Clean them twice a year or after any wet riding. Remove the bearing shields, soak in citrus solvent, agitate, rinse, dry completely, then apply fresh lubricant. Takes maybe 20 minutes. Makes a noticeable difference in rolling speed.
\nWheels: Rotate them between axles periodically to even out wear. Clean with warm soapy water when they start looking grimy. Dirty wheels lose grip.
\nTrucks: Squeaking trucks usually just need a bit of soap or wax in the pivot cup. Check the hardware bolts every few months. Vibration loosens them gradually and loose trucks affect your turning predictability.
\nDeck: Seal any cracks immediately with wood sealant to prevent moisture getting in. Minor chips can be filled with wood filler. Don't drag your tail when braking if you can avoid it. Razor tail is annoying to fix.
\nFor longboard accessories including maintenance tools, skate tools are worth having. A multi-tool that fits all your hardware and lets you adjust truck tightness on the fly is genuinely useful.
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Conclusion: What to Actually Do Next
If you've read this far, here's the short version of everything.
Get a complete longboard in the $100 to $150 range with a drop-through or drop-down construction, 70mm 78A-83A wheels, and reverse kingpin trucks. Brands like Atom, Yocaher, Retrospec, and Sector 9 all have solid options in this range that won't disappoint you.
Buy wrist guards and a helmet before you ride. Not after your first fall.
Find a flat, empty parking lot or quiet path. Practice pushing and stopping for your first few sessions. Don't worry about tricks or hills until you can push, turn, and stop reliably.
Check out longboards for beginners to see a curated selection, or browse longboards on sale if budget is tight.
The right board doesn't make you a skater. Consistent practice does. But the right board means you're not fighting your equipment while you're trying to learn. That matters more than people realise until they've experienced both.