Beginner's Guide to Longboard Wheels: Everything You Need to Know

Picking the right longboard wheels might seem like a small detail, but trust me—they're gonna completely change how your board feels under your feet.

Key Takeaways

• Wheel diameter (size) affects speed and stability (60-70mm is best for beginners)
• Durometer (hardness) impacts grip and ride feel (78A-83A is ideal for starting out)
• Contact patch width influences stability and slide capability
• Core placement affects how wheels respond during turns
• Softer wheels (75A-80A) work better on rough surfaces, harder wheels on smooth surfaces

Introduction: Why Wheels Make or Break Your Ride

Picking the right longboard wheels might seem like a small detail, but trust me—they're gonna completely change how your board feels under your feet. As someone who's been riding for over 15 years and has gone through countless sets of wheels, I can tell ya that wheels are basically the only thing connecting you to the ground. They determine your speed, how smooth your ride is, and whether you can slide around corners or stay firmly gripped to the pavement.

If you're just getting started with longboarding, all the technical stuff about wheels can feel overwhelming. I remember when I bought my first longboard and the shop guy started talking about "durometers" and "contact patches"—I nodded like I knew what he was talking about, but I was totally lost!

This guide breaks down everything you need to know about longboard wheels in simple terms, so you can make smart choices and get the most enjoyment from your rides.

What Are Longboard Wheels and Why They Matter

Longboard wheels are made from polyurethane (or "urethane" as skaters call it), a type of plastic that's both grippy and bouncy. Unlike car tires, they don't have air inside—they're solid chunks of urethane with a bearing seat molded into the center.

The cool thing about urethane is how it can be formulated in different ways. Some formulas focus on grip, others on slide ability, and some are designed to be super bouncy and absorb lots of vibration. Companies like Shark Wheel have even reimagined the traditional wheel shape into a wave-like pattern that claims to handle rough surfaces better.

What makes wheels so important? Here's why they matter more than most beginners realize:

1. They're your suspension system - Unlike bikes or cars, longboards don't have shocks or springs. Your wheels are what absorbs all the bumps and vibrations from the road.

2. They determine your top speed - Bigger wheels roll faster on flat ground and maintain speed longer.

3. They affect how easy it is to push - Softer, bigger wheels require less effort to keep rolling, making long distances easier.

4. They control how your board slides - The difference between a smooth, controlled slide and an unpredictable slip-out often comes down to your wheel choice.

When I first started riding, I had these cheap, hard wheels that came with my complete board. Swapping them out for quality urethane was like night and day—suddenly cracks in the sidewalk weren't launching me off my board anymore! That's the kinda difference good wheels make.

Understanding Wheel Size (Diameter)

Wheel size is measured in millimeters (mm) across the diameter (from one edge to the opposite edge). In the longboarding world, wheels typically range from 60mm to 100mm, with most falling between 65-75mm.

Here's how different sizes affect your ride:

For beginners, I usually recommend sticking to the 65mm range or 70mm range. These give you a nice balance of speed and control without being too heavy or requiring tall riser pads.

A personal experience: I used to ride 76mm wheels for everything, thinking "bigger is better!" Then I switched to 70mm for city cruising and realized I could ollie up curbs way easier and my board felt more responsive. Sometimes smaller is actually better depending on what your riding!

One important thing to remember is that larger wheels increase your ride height—they make your board sit higher off the ground. This affects stability (lower = more stable) and can lead to wheel bite, where your wheel hits the deck during turns. If you go with wheels larger than 70mm, you might need risers (little pads that go between your trucks and deck) to prevent wheel bite.

Durometer: How Wheel Hardness Affects Your Ride

Durometer is basically how hard or soft your wheels are. It's measured on what's called the Shore A scale, and for longboard wheels, it typically ranges from 75A (super soft) to 90A (quite hard).

Here's what the numbers mean for your ride:

• 75A-78A: Super soft, grippy, and shock-absorbing. Great for rough roads and beginners. These wheels feel like riding on clouds over rough pavement but don't slide easily.

• 78A-83A: Medium-soft, the most versatile hardness range. Good balance of grip, slide ability, and shock absorption. This is what most longboarders use and what I recommend for beginners.

• 83A-87A: Medium-hard, slides more easily but still has decent grip. Preferred by many freeride skaters who want predictable slides.

• 88A-90A+: Hard wheels that slide very easily but offer limited shock absorption. Mostly used for technical sliding or smooth skatepark surfaces.

Blood Orange wheels are known for having really consistent durometers across their lineup. I've got a set of their 82A Morgan Pros that have lasted me over 2 years of regular riding!

An important note: different brands measure durometer slightly differently. A 78A from one company might feel more like an 80A from another company. This inconsistency can be frustrating, but once you find a brand you like, you'll get a feel for their scale.

When I started, I rode really soft wheels (75A) cause the streets in my neighborhood were super rough. My more experienced friend let me try his 83A wheels on a smooth bike path, and suddenly I could do little slides at the end of my carves—it was like unlocking a new skill just by changing wheels!

Contact Patch and Lip Profiles Explained

The contact patch is the part of the wheel that actually touches the ground. Wider contact patches (like 40-50mm) provide more stability and grip, which is great for downhill and beginners. Narrower contact patches (like 30-35mm) break into slides more easily and are preferred for technical freeride.

Just as important as the width is the shape of the wheel's edge—what we call the "lip profile." There are two main types:

Square Lips: These have a sharp, 90-degree edge where the rolling surface meets the sidewall. This shape maximizes grip by providing a definitive edge that bites into the pavement during turns. Great for downhill longboarding and beginners who want maximum stability.

Round Lips: These have a rounded transition from the rolling surface to the sidewall. This shape allows the wheel to break traction more predictably, making slides smoother and easier to control. Ideal for freeride and those learning to slide.

Some wheels like the Powell Peralta Snakes have become legendary in the scene because they somehow manage to slide super smooth while still providing decent grip when you're not sliding—it's all in how they designed the lip profile.

I learned this lesson the hard way when I bought some square-lipped downhill wheels and tried to learn slides on them. I kept gripping up and getting thrown off my board! Switching to round lips made learning slides so much easier and less painful.

Core Placement and Why It Matters

The core is the hard plastic center of the wheel where your bearings sit. Its placement within the wheel affects how it performs:

Centerset: The core is directly in the center of the wheel. These wheels can be flipped when they start to wear unevenly (called "coning"), effectively doubling their lifespan. Good all-around option.

Offset: The core is offset from the center, closer to the inside edge of the wheel. This creates a supportive inner lip while allowing the outer lip to deform more during turns, providing extra grip. Most common in downhill and cruising wheels.

Sideset: The core is placed very close to the inside edge. This allows the wheel to deform significantly during turns, providing maximum grip but often wearing faster. Less common except in specialized downhill wheels.

Core placement isn't something beginners need to obsess over, but it's good to understand why wheels are designed differently. As you progress, you'll start to develop preferences.

A nice compromise is a slightly offset core like in many Powell Peralta wheels, which gives you some of the benefits of both centerset and offset designs.

One time I bought a set of wheels without realizing they were sideset, and they wore down super unevenly. After about two months, they looked like cones! I couldn't flip them because of the core placement, so I learned to check this spec carefully in the future.

Best Wheels for Different Riding Styles

For Cruising and Commuting

If you're mainly using your longboard to get around campus or cruise the neighborhood, focus on comfort and roll speed:

• Size: 65-75mm
• Durometer: 78A-80A
• Profile: Square or rounded lip
• Recommendations: Orangatang 4President, Sector 9 Nineballs

For Learning Slides (Freeride)

When you're ready to start learning how to slide, you want wheels that break traction predictably:

• Size: 65-70mm
• Durometer: 80A-86A
• Profile: Round lip (important!)
• Recommendations: Powell Peralta Snakes, Blood Orange Morgan Pro 65mm

For Downhill Speed

For bombing hills and going fast while maintaining control:

• Size: 70-75mm
• Durometer: 78A-83A
• Profile: Square lip for maximum grip
• Recommendations: Orangatang Kegel, Sector 9 Race Formula

For Rough Roads

If your local streets are cracked and rough:

• Size: 70mm+
• Durometer: 75A-78A (soft!)
• Profile: Square lip
• Recommendations: Orangatang In Heat, Shark Wheel 72mm

I personally keep two sets of wheels—some 60mm cruiser wheels for messing around in smooth parking lots, and bigger 70mm wheels for actual transportation. It takes 5 minutes to swap them out, and I get the best of both worlds!

Common Wheel Issues and Maintenance Tips

Even the best wheels will develop issues eventually. Here's how to recognize and fix common problems:

Flatspotting

This happens when you slide at 90 degrees for too long, wearing a flat spot on your wheel. Once you've got a flatspot, it's nearly impossible to fix.

Prevention: Always slide at an angle less than 90 degrees. If you hear a "thump-thump-thump" while rolling, you're developing a flatspot.

Coning

When wheels wear unevenly into a cone shape because you're always turning in the same direction.

Fix: If your wheels have centerset cores, rotate them by flipping them around on your axles. For offset/sideset cores, rotate front to back.

Chunking

When pieces of urethane tear off due to poor quality or hitting objects at high speed.

Prevention: Avoid hitting curbs and large objects. Choose quality brands known for consistent urethane formulas.

I once made the mistake of buying the cheapest wheels I could find online. Within two weeks, they started chunking like crazy—whole pieces breaking off during slides! I ended up spending more money replacing them than if I'd just bought quality wheels to begin with. Sometimes being cheap costs more in the long run.

Maintenance Tips:

1. Clean your wheels periodically - Remove them and wipe them down with a slightly damp cloth to remove dirt and debris that can affect performance.

2. Rotate wheels - Every 2-3 weeks of regular riding, rotate your wheels to promote even wear.

3. Check for embedded debris - Rocks and glass can get stuck in wheels. Remove these with a small screwdriver before they work deeper into the urethane.

4. Know when to replace - When wheels are worn down by more than 10mm from their original size or show signs of severe chunking or flatspotting, it's time for new ones.

Your bearings are just as important as your wheels! Make sure to clean them every couple of months if you ride regularly. A little bearing maintenance goes a long way toward keeping your wheels rolling smooth and fast.

Conclusion: Getting Rolling With the Right Wheels

Choosing wheels isn't about finding the "best" option—it's about finding what works for your specific style, terrain, and preferences. For beginners, I recommend starting with something versatile like 70mm wheels in the 78A-80A durometer range. These will handle most situations well and give you room to explore different riding styles.

As you progress, you'll develop your own preferences based on what feels right under your feet. Don't be afraid to try different wheels—many experienced longboarders have a collection they swap between depending on what and where they're riding that day.

Remember that quality matters. Good urethane from reputable manufacturers will last longer, perform more consistently, and ultimately provide a better experience than budget options. Brands like Blood Orange, Powell Peralta, and Orangatang have proven track records for quality.

Your wheels are literally where the rubber meets the road—they're worth investing in. Now get out there and start rolling!

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I replace my longboard wheels?

Most quality wheels will last 3-6 months of regular riding before performance noticeably declines. If you do a lot of slides, they might wear down faster. Replace them when they've lost about 8-10mm from their original diameter or if they develop flatspots.

Can I use skateboard wheels on a longboard?

Technically yes, but it's not ideal. Traditional skateboard wheels are harder (95A-101A) and smaller (52-56mm), making them less comfortable for cruising and transportation. They're designed for skateparks and tricks, not distance riding.

Why do my wheels make a loud sound when I ride?

If you're hearing a rhythmic "thump-thump-thump," you might have flatspots developing. If it's more of a consistent rumble, your bearings might need cleaning or replacement. Sometimes new wheels are just a bit noisy until they break in.

What's the best wheel color?

Wheel color doesn't affect performance at all—it's purely aesthetic. Some riders think white wheels show wear more visibly, which can be helpful for knowing when to replace them. Otherwise, pick whatever looks cool to you!

Should I get wheels with built-in lights?

Light-up wheels like some Shark Wheel models are fun and increase visibility at night, which is great for safety. However, they're typically a bit heavier and the internal mechanisms can occasionally affect roll speed. They're fine for cruising but not ideal for performance riding.

Can I slide on any longboard wheels?

While you technically can slide on most wheels, some make it much easier than others. Round-lipped wheels in the 80A-86A durometer range break traction most predictably and are recommended for beginners learning to slide. Very soft wheels (75A-78A) with square lips will be challenging for beginners to slide consistently.

How tight should my wheels be on the axle?

Tighten your axle nuts until the wheel stops spinning freely, then back off just enough that the wheel spins without side-to-side play. You want minimal lateral movement while still allowing free spinning. If you're unsure, visit a local skate shop for a demonstration.